Both FOBs died at the same time?

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scottysize

Active member
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
31
Location
Sanger, TX
Our FOB quit starting the car and wouldn't unlock the doors, so I broke out the spare. It lasted 1 day, then wouldn't open the doors or start the car. The second FOB is never used, so how did the battery go dead in it?

I thought for sure there was a problem with the car, so I called the local Stellership. The service tech asked if I'd tried a new battery. I said, no that it was both FOBs. He said, "Ya... did you try new batteries?" all valley girl like. Needless to say, I hung up on him. Here's the kicker: Swapped out batteries in both FOBs, now they work just fine. Still don't understand how both went dead at the same time.

Something to keep in mind for those that have this problem. If your car won't start, hold the FOB up to the start button and it will start using the RFID chip.
 
It didn't give you fair warning? Mine popped up a message in the dash display telling me I needed new fob batteries well before they died altogether. And, yes, both died at around the same time, despite me almost never using the one designated as "spare".
 
Ours both started to fade at the same time, even though one gets a lot less use. Same with my in-laws pair of Leaf keys. I'm guessing the key is always either broadcasting or looking for a signal from the car (not sure which way it goes), even if it's sitting in a drawer--thus the drain.

Also, did you notice the "key battery low" display on your dash? I did, but wasn't sure what it was trying to tell me: Battery icon (showing half full or so) and key together. Seems obvious now, but I'm particularly dense, especially in the morning. It would show for several seconds at turn-on, then go away. Shortly thereafter, the door wouldn't always unlock or lock; about that time, my wife figured it out.
 
scottysize said:
Our FOB quit starting the car and wouldn't unlock the doors, so I broke out the spare. It lasted 1 day, then wouldn't open the doors or start the car. The second FOB is never used, so how did the battery go dead in it?

All depends on WHERE/how you store your FOB(s). If your "backup" is within RF range of the car, it will likely see the same battery life as your primary. I store my backup far enough away (e.g. can't remote operate the door locks) so that I'm only affected by the shelf life of the battery. How do I know? I recently had to replace the battery in my primary (every day use) FOB but the backup was fine for the couple of days I used it.
 
I got the low battery warning indicator for the fob, went upstairs to get the spare, but it was totally dead. Replaced batteries in both fobs, both work fine now.
 
Never got the battery low indicator for the FOB, or at least we never noticed it; wifey turtled it the other day because she didn't realize it didn't charge. I had to go pick it up with my truck and trailer. (That kinda defeats the purpose, right?)

I keep the spare locked in a key lock box, but it might be close enough to sense the car.
 
Based on reports of some of the earlier adopters, I replaced the cells in both remotes a few weeks ago (Dec '11 delivery). For a few bucks, might as well save headaches and it's not like there was a huge amount of capacity left on the table. Sort of like with 12V batteries. Getting the last few Joules out of the thing means having a bad day.
 
Both FOBs showed low fob battery warning about same time. Had the dealer replace the battery for about $4 each. My LEAF was delivered in April 2011.
 
Yes, they tend to go dead around the same time. But I had that warning and I don't know how many months passed before I ordered a few replacement batteries. If anyone would just use the common 2032 battery, I would change it immediately. But, no, everyone has to be different.

Change "LEAF" to "Prius" and repeat the same story. Except I still haven't replaced my battery yet, and it's been a really long time. Still works, despite the warning. Replacement (different type again) is sitting in the "cart" waiting for me to buy enough things to meet a minimum order.
 
I believe (someone correct me on this) that the fob takes CR2025 batteries. You should be able to pick them up for $2/each at Fry's.

For those w/Daiso stores near them (the Japanese $1.50 store), I recall seeing 2 packs of lithium button cells (CR2032 and I think CR2025 as well) for $1.50 per 2 pack at the Milpitas (Great Mall) location. They were Mitsubishi made in Japan batteries.

See list of stores at http://www.daiso-sangyo.co.jp/shop/index.php?prc=overseas&sid=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Yeah yeah, the page is in Japanese. :/

On places like Amazon, there are places selling lots of cheap lithium batteries, but I wouldn't be surprised if many of the ones sold by 3rd-party resellers on Amazon (not sold by Amazon itself) are counterfeit.

There's also http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/battery-products/batteries-non-rechargeable-primary/394467?k=cr2025" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, but I've never done business w/them and you'd need to pay shipping.
 
cwerdna said:
I believe (someone correct me on this) that the fob takes CR2025 batteries. You should be able to pick them up for $2/each at Fry's.
Yes, CR2025 is the right size. CR2032 will sometimes work, but it's thicker than spec (3.2mm rather than 2.5mm). Around here, at least, CR2025 batteries are usually available at Dollar Tree for (of course) $1.00.

By the way, there are instructions in the manual for replacing the battery, but some people have found it hard to get the fob open. I think Stoaty gave the best approach here.

Ray
 
I removed the battery from the spare FOB when the car was new (and used it in the FOB for another vehicle which was dead).

We have been getting the warning on the dash for about a month now, so I guess it will stop working any day now. But it's not a big deal when/if the battery dies, since you still can unlock and start the car. It's just less convenient.
 
gbarry42 said:
Yes, they tend to go dead around the same time. But I had that warning and I don't know how many months passed before I ordered a few replacement batteries. If anyone would just use the common 2032 battery, I would change it immediately. But, no, everyone has to be different.

CR2025 aren't uncommon. I picked up a 2-pack at our regular grocery store.
 
RegGuheert said:
I removed the battery from the spare FOB when the car was new (and used it in the FOB for another vehicle which was dead).

We have been getting the warning on the dash for about a month now, so I guess it will stop working any day now. But it's not a big deal when/if the battery dies, since you still can unlock and start the car. It's just less convenient.

True, you can and people who drive the car regularly and are interested in it probably know how. Spouses and occasional users may not know or remember the emergency key and procedure.
 
Nubo said:
True, you can and people who drive the car regularly and are interested in it probably know how. Spouses and occasional users may not know or remember the emergency key and procedure.
Agreed. That is why I both tried it myself and trained the other drivers in the household how to do it after I removed the battery from the spare.

I have had to use the no-battery spare exactly once when my wife was out with the main key in her purse.
 
I think I went a couple of months between the first dash warning and having to use the dead battery start procedure. It was temperature dependent, not surprisingly: If the fob had been in my cool closet it wouldn't work. After it had been in my warm pocket for an hour or more it worked fine. After awhile the dead battery start became annoying so I finally replaced the 2025 cell with one I had purchased several months before. Now my rarely used spare is showing the dash warning. But for that one there isn't much point in replacing the dying cell since I use it so seldom and the no battery start works fine, as others have said.

FWIW, I've been keeping my spare Li-ion button cells in my refrigerator since this dead fob discussion started this summer and got me thinking about preserving their life.
 
Just found out I could fit a CR2032 battery in there!!
This is my second time having to replace the keyfob battery after 2 years ownership - it seems the battery only lasts about a year. However this time I accidentally purchased CR2032 batteries instead of the CR2025 that it came with. Oh well, might as well try and see if it will fit. Yes! It fits!! The CR2032 has about 30% more capacity. It closed up just fine and the buttons all work just fine still. In case it matters as I hear some batteries vary slightly in thickness, I bought mine at Harbor Freight. So I'm pretty happy about this and it should last much longer this time around. :D
 
cwerdna said:
I believe (someone correct me on this) that the fob takes CR2025 batteries. You should be able to pick them up for $2/each at Fry's.

For those w/Daiso stores near them (the Japanese $1.50 store), I recall seeing 2 packs of lithium button cells (CR2032 and I think CR2025 as well) for $1.50 per 2 pack at the Milpitas (Great Mall) location. They were Mitsubishi made in Japan batteries.

See list of stores at http://www.daiso-sangyo.co.jp/shop/index.php?prc=overseas&sid=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. Yeah yeah, the page is in Japanese. :/
I was recently at the Eastridge Mall Daiso in San Jose, CA and spotted they had 2 packs for of CR2016, CR2025 and CR2032 batteries for $1.50 per pack of 2. This one had them not as easily spotted at some others I've been to. I missed them and had to ask for help.

If you can't find them, ask for help, possibly looking for button/coin cell batteries.

IIRC, the CR2025 and CR2032 batteries they had were made in Japan Mitsubishi batteries.
 
Since this topic gets so much interest, I guess it's worth saying that I get my CR2025's (and others) @Cyberguys.com & the price beats just about anything I've seen posted here: a 5 pack for <$3!!
 
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