Bicster
Well-known member
Nubo said:
It's the number on the master breaker
EVSE Home Assessment Scheduling is Live!
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It's the number on the master breaker
Kataphn
Well-known member
For installation of time of use meter for lower night time charging rate, Los Angeles Dept. of Water and Power (for me) needed to come out and have their field worker make a diagram of where DWP wanted the meter installed. This is the first step to any installation of the charging dock. So I have my diagram but am waiting still to hear about my home assessment. EV charging for our house will for sure be metered separately so that we can benefit from time of use (TOU in DWP speak) rates which currently are about 2.5 cents per kilowatt hour. Still not clear how DWP will coordinate with LA City Building and Safety Dept. and the installer....we will see how it all shakes out.
garygid
Well-known member
Yes, get the PU to look it over (probably free) if you are going to two meters. Find out what part the PU will do, and for what price. Also, find out what the PU requires to approve your intended project.
In some areas, there are certain rules that apply to sockets to be used for EV charging, different from "shop utility" sockets.
I might have to consider installing a 240v 40-amp "shop utility" socket, or two, and some 120v 20a sockets as well.
In some areas, there are certain rules that apply to sockets to be used for EV charging, different from "shop utility" sockets.
I might have to consider installing a 240v 40-amp "shop utility" socket, or two, and some 120v 20a sockets as well.
planet4ever
Well-known member
For Nubo and Kataphn both, it was my understanding that AeroVironment would be taking care of any needed coordination with utility or city folk. That's what you're paying them the big bucks for.
Nubo
Well-known member
Bicster said:Nubo said:
It's the number on the master breaker
Guess I ought to find that sucker! :lol:
There's a panel outside by the meter but I've never opened it; only the breakers inside.
The main breaker is usually on the same panel as the rest of your breakers unless you have a sub-panel.Nubo said:Guess I ought to find that sucker! :lol:Bicster said:It's the number on the master breakerNubo said:
garygid
Well-known member
The house wiring to the EVSE is 4-wire: Hot1, Hot2, Neutral, and Ground.
There are only 4 wires through the e-hose (even though the J1772 connector has 5 pins): the same Ground, switched Hot1 and Hot2, and one much thinner, low-voltage, two-way "status-communication" line.
The EVSE applies a voltage or signal (through a resistor) to the wire, to tell the car that power is available, and the maximum current available (6 to 80 amps).
The car loads the line with a resistance (which varies) to signal connected, ON, OFF, and ventilation required.
There are only 4 wires through the e-hose (even though the J1772 connector has 5 pins): the same Ground, switched Hot1 and Hot2, and one much thinner, low-voltage, two-way "status-communication" line.
The EVSE applies a voltage or signal (through a resistor) to the wire, to tell the car that power is available, and the maximum current available (6 to 80 amps).
The car loads the line with a resistance (which varies) to signal connected, ON, OFF, and ventilation required.
DeaneG
Well-known member
Nubo said:
You can call PG&E's clean vehicle hotline to get more info on setting up a dual meter. They told me that I would need to hire a licensed electrician to replace the service entry panel, and possibly upgrade the incoming electrical service if the present installation was inadequate for the increased current flow. Costs would start around $1000 and could go up to about $10K if trenching and new lines were required. Also the house would be without power for 1-2 days.
I was going to discuss this with the Nissan EVSE guy during his visit in a couple of weeks. But right now it looks like I'd be better off just installing a small PV system, maybe 2kW, to produce about one tier's worth or electricity and take the upper-tier edge off during the summer. Probably a better way to spend $10K.
I just hate to have my existing perfectly-good service entry modified at considerable expense for no particular physical reason.
evnow
Well-known member
garygid said:
So what kind of a circuit do you need to do this part ? Doesn't look complicated .... (I'm a lapsed EE :lol: ).
Will a 2 kW system be enough? Should be enough to offset about 10k miles of driving, but don't you need to make sure you keep out of the top tiers in winter, too? In CA, winter electricity costs are only a couple cents/kWh cheaper than summer.DeaneG said:
Anyway, $10k should be enough to get a bit more than 2kW of PV after rebates - looks like 1BOG's rates are low-mid $5/DC watt.
The 1BOG thread has more info about them: 1BOG?
drees said:
$5.44. Canadian Solar 240w panels. SMA 'Sunny Boy' inverters.
Right, but price varies depending on your location and the deal they have worked out with the local installer, plus prices can go up in you have any special circumstances that require additional labor or if you want different equipment (for example, complex conduit runs, trenching, micro-inverters, super-high-efficiency panels). Either way, 1BOG seems to be able to negotiate very good prices with reputable companies.mwalsh said:
drees said:
Yeah, I realize that. But that's our 'basic' deal of the upcoming OC one.
garygid
Well-known member
evnow,
Design of a "working" J1772-compatible grid-to-car connection is not difficult.
The J1772 plug has yet to be sourced.
Also, I need a copy of the J1772 standard (at least Jan, 2010) to get the details right.
But, without UL "listing", it might be "illegal" to use it.
But, for "emergencies", maybe useful?
Design of a "working" J1772-compatible grid-to-car connection is not difficult.
The J1772 plug has yet to be sourced.
Also, I need a copy of the J1772 standard (at least Jan, 2010) to get the details right.
But, without UL "listing", it might be "illegal" to use it.
But, for "emergencies", maybe useful?
EVDRIVER
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garygid said:
Illegal? So the electric police will arrest you. That makes 50% of my house illegal, I better check all my ground connections quick!
If you need a plug, I can get you one. If you need a female J1772 I can get you one. But you will be braking the law. UL is not a "legal" designation, it is just a private underwriting lab. There are other options besides UL. I bet you have items in your home that are not UL listed. I'm sending an inspector to check that this week, please be prepared to post bail.
evnow
Well-known member
EVDRIVER said:
What law ? Only thing I can think of is that J1772 is copyrighted - so may be DMCA ?
DeaneG
Well-known member
drees said:
My wife and I live like hermits because of PG&E's high electricity cost. Most of the time we are in one room, with lights off in the rest of the house. And florescent lights at that (have already checked everything with Kill-a-Watt meter, etc). In the winter, we can actually come close to hitting the baseline rate... but not quite. In the summer, we are in tier 3-4 depending on the weather, due only to A/C usage. And they are SEER14 A/C units a couple years old.
In my case, there's not much benefit to PV in the winter, but it should pay back eventually in the summer.
garygid
Well-known member
EVDRIVER,
Thanks for the offer to get a J1772 connector for me.
Yes, please let me know the price for the "plug" (and the price for a suitable matching "grip") - the part on the end of the e-fuel cord.
If it is reasonable, I will buy at least one from you.
If you can, please price the "socket" part also - the part in the LEAF.
Thanks, Gary
Thanks for the offer to get a J1772 connector for me.
Yes, please let me know the price for the "plug" (and the price for a suitable matching "grip") - the part on the end of the e-fuel cord.
If it is reasonable, I will buy at least one from you.
If you can, please price the "socket" part also - the part in the LEAF.
Thanks, Gary
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