Bicster
Well-known member
Nubo said:Also, I don't even know what my actual service is rated at (amps); how do I find that out?
It's the number on the master breaker
Nubo said:Also, I don't even know what my actual service is rated at (amps); how do I find that out?
Bicster said:Nubo said:Also, I don't even know what my actual service is rated at (amps); how do I find that out?
It's the number on the master breaker
The main breaker is usually on the same panel as the rest of your breakers unless you have a sub-panel.Nubo said:Guess I ought to find that sucker! :lol: There's a panel outside by the meter but I've never opened it; only the breakers inside.Bicster said:It's the number on the master breakerNubo said:Also, I don't even know what my actual service is rated at (amps); how do I find that out?
Nubo said:I'll be needing to put the charger on a separate meter for time-of-day pricing. Certainly don't want to be paying "Tier3" electric rates for that!
Question is -- should I just discuss during with the EVSE visit, or should I be pursuing this as a separate activity?
Also, I don't even know what my actual service is rated at (amps); how do I find that out?
garygid said:I eagerly await the results of your assessment.
Please ask about the cost of a replacement "e-hose", a replacement EVSE, a longer e-hose, their warranty, if they will install plug-in (as allowed by NEC 625), and consider asking for an itemized bid, to allow you to choose the items you want.
Nubo said:I'll be needing to put the charger on a separate meter for time-of-day pricing. ..Question is -- should I just discuss during with the EVSE visit, or should I be pursuing this as a separate activity?
garygid said:The EVSE applies a voltage or signal (through a resistor) to the wire, to tell the car that power is available, and the maximum current available (6 to 80 amps).
The car loads the line with a resistance (which varies) to signal connected, ON, OFF, and ventilation required.
Will a 2 kW system be enough? Should be enough to offset about 10k miles of driving, but don't you need to make sure you keep out of the top tiers in winter, too? In CA, winter electricity costs are only a couple cents/kWh cheaper than summer.DeaneG said:I was going to discuss this with the Nissan EVSE guy during his visit in a couple of weeks. But right now it looks like I'd be better off just installing a small PV system, maybe 2kW, to produce about one tier's worth or electricity and take the upper-tier edge off during the summer. Probably a better way to spend $10K.
drees said:Looks like 1BOG's rates are low-mid $5/DC watt.
Right, but price varies depending on your location and the deal they have worked out with the local installer, plus prices can go up in you have any special circumstances that require additional labor or if you want different equipment (for example, complex conduit runs, trenching, micro-inverters, super-high-efficiency panels). Either way, 1BOG seems to be able to negotiate very good prices with reputable companies.mwalsh said:$5.44. Canadian Solar 240w panels. SMA 'Sunny Boy' inverters.drees said:Looks like 1BOG's rates are low-mid $5/DC watt.
drees said:Right, but price varies depending on your location and the deal they have worked out with the local installer, plus prices can go up in you have any special circumstances that require additional labor or if you want different equipment (for example, complex conduit runs, trenching, micro-inverters, super-high-efficiency panels). Either way, 1BOG seems to be able to negotiate very good prices with reputable companies.
garygid said:evnow,
Design of a "working" J1772-compatible grid-to-car connection is not difficult.
The J1772 plug has yet to be sourced.
Also, I need a copy of the J1772 standard (at least Jan, 2010) to get the details right.
But, without UL "listing", it might be "illegal" to use it.
But, for "emergencies", maybe useful?
EVDRIVER said:If you need a plug, I can get you one. If you need a female J1772 I can get you one. But you will be braking the law.
drees said:Will a 2 kW system be enough? Should be enough to offset about 10k miles of driving, but don't you need to make sure you keep out of the top tiers in winter, too? In CA, winter electricity costs are only a couple cents/kWh cheaper than summer.DeaneG said:..But right now it looks like I'd be better off just installing a small PV system, maybe 2kW, to produce about one tier's worth or electricity and take the upper-tier edge off during the summer....
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