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BMS is battery monitoring system which would control the charger i am guessing. but should have a smart charger that charges based on SOC of battery along with power supply connected
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
BMS is battery monitoring system which would control the charger i am guessing. but should have a smart charger that charges based on SOC of battery along with power supply connected


The role of the BMS is to protect the cells they are attached to and to balance the charging of the pack. In general terms the BMS talks to the charger and tells it to restrict output and also provides other info to other devices if applicable, such as SOC to a dash display via a shunt for current and voltage readings. The EVSE is only a "smart" relay with a fixed load capacity. A BMS computer could have the ability to talk to an EVSE but it's not it's primary role. The BMS brain which is separate from the cell modules can have added functions, BMS can be used in a generic term and it is a component of the charging system. Some of the basic EVSE functions besides safety are to:

Tell the charger it's max load capacity
Let it know it's plugged in and ready, etc. (relay trigger)
Communicate basic issues
Provide a timer in some cases for EVs without
Communicate to a network
Etc.

The plug also tells your car not to start when plugged in so that you don't rip the cord out. Would happen very often without an interlock! The EVSE communication is somewhat basic between the car and itself, some are more complex to the network for data delivery. A Leaf spec EVSE will have lower power than a commercial model and not all the advanced features needed for communication as it is not required for residential and reduces the cost. Commercial models cost more as a result of these features and higher power handling to support multiple cars like the Tesla and others.
 
Is there a checkbox for "I will get my own installation estimate, Thanks."?

When you have your $100 assessment, you might want to ask for an itemized estimate.

And, enquire about the cost of spare parts (e-hose, EVSE unit).
 
garygid said:
Is there a checkbox for "I will get my own installation estimate, Thanks."?

When you have your $100 assessment, you might want to ask for an itemized estimate.

And, enquire about the cost of spare parts (e-hose, EVSE unit).


It will be interesting to compare costs for the install. If I have a 50A 240 feed right to the location ready to go I would hope it costs far less than someone who needs one run.
 
i'm one of the many who hasn't received an email to start setting up my home charger. and i understand that the 50% tax credit will only be good til the end of 2010...

i believe my home won't need any upgrades. so my question..

suppose my 'official' installation isn't scheduled til next year, couldn't i have the wiring, breaker, etc put in this year out to some box in my garage and get the tax credit for that much of it?? next year the charging unit will just 'pop' on and i'll have to pay full for that (few hundred$?)?

thanks
 
bradford said:
i'm one of the many who hasn't received an email to start setting up my home charger. and i understand that the 50% tax credit will only be good til the end of 2010...

i believe my home won't need any upgrades. so my question..

suppose my 'official' installation isn't scheduled til next year, couldn't i have the wiring, breaker, etc put in this year out to some box in my garage and get the tax credit for that much of it?? next year the charging unit will just 'pop' on and i'll have to pay full for that (few hundred$?)?

thanks

I'm in Boston, the same situation. I am having my service upgraded to 200A, and a 100A subpanel put in the garage, and if I can find a place to buy an EVSE directly, I will, and have my electrician install it, then you will be able to take the credit. The credit is for the complete installation, and "putting the unit in service" in 2010, I take that to mean it is ready to go and use as soon as the vehicle is here...

We need to source some EVSE's to get installed on our own, there really is not much of a point waiting for anyone else, I'm thinking I can get my electrical upgrade done and the EVSE installed for not much more than the $2200, and get uncle sam to pay for 1/2 of it. Even if it's $3000-$3500, at least 1/2 of it can be a tax credit, then the Leaf can be on my 2011 Tax's.
 
mitch672 said:
We need to source some EVSE's to get installed on our own, there really is not much of a point waiting for anyone else, I'm thinking I can get my electrical upgrade done and the EVSE installed for not much more than the $2200, and get uncle sam to pay for 1/2 of it. Even if it's $3000-$3500, at least 1/2 of it can be a tax credit, then the Leaf can be on my 2011 Tax's.

Call Coloumb, AV, ECOtality - someone should be willing to give a price, if not sell !
 
bradford said:
would we need a subpanel in the garage? what amp capability is needed for the 220 circuit anyway(40a)?


My reading of the excellent series of posts found here:

http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=616&start=10

is that a minimum of a 240v, 40 AMP dedicated line is required. A subpanel is not required, but a dedicated circuit will be.

Please chime in fellow Leafers, I have to re-read this stuff every time I venture into the wonderful world of the NEC.
 
bradford said:
would we need a subpanel in the garage? what amp capability is needed for the 220 circuit anyway(40a)?

In my case, it's easier to run a new 100A line to a new subpanel. My garage is a separate building, 12" from the main house, and already has a 60A subpanel, but it comes off my main panel, which is on an 8KW generator (via an automatic transfer switch). The 60A subpanel will stay for "generator backed up circuits", while the new 100A panel will be for loads that are too large, and wouldn't work on an 8KW generator, such as my 18K BTU Air Conditioner (on a 20A 2 pole breaker), a well pump for a sprinkler system (20A 2 pole breaker), and the new 40 or 50A 2 pole breaker for the EVSE... It's not reasonable to run a 40/50A breaker off a 60A subpanel..
 
mitch672 said:
bradford said:
would we need a subpanel in the garage? what amp capability is needed for the 220 circuit anyway(40a)?

In my case, it's easier to run a new 100A line to a new subpanel. My garage is a separate building, 12" from tghe main house, and already has a 60A subpanel, but it comes off my main panel, which os on an 8KW generator (via an automatic transfer switch). The 60A subpanel will stay for "generator backed up circuits:, while the new 10)A panel will be for loads that are too large, and wouldn't work on an 8KW generator, such as my 18K BTU Air Conditioner (on a 20A 2 pole breaker), a well pump for a sprinkler system (20A 2 pole breaker), and the new 40 or 50A 2 pole breaker for the EVSE... It's not reasonable to run a 40/50A breaker off a 60A subpanel..

Ok, NOW I have serious generator envy!
 
sjfotos said:
mitch672 said:
bradford said:
would we need a subpanel in the garage? what amp capability is needed for the 220 circuit anyway(40a)?

In my case, it's easier to run a new 100A line to a new subpanel. My garage is a separate building, 12" from tghe main house, and already has a 60A subpanel, but it comes off my main panel, which os on an 8KW generator (via an automatic transfer switch). The 60A subpanel will stay for "generator backed up circuits:, while the new 10)A panel will be for loads that are too large, and wouldn't work on an 8KW generator, such as my 18K BTU Air Conditioner (on a 20A 2 pole breaker), a well pump for a sprinkler system (20A 2 pole breaker), and the new 40 or 50A 2 pole breaker for the EVSE... It's not reasonable to run a 40/50A breaker off a 60A subpanel..

Ok, NOW I have serious generator envy!

Yes, but 8KW is not a very large generator... it's enough for lights and the refrigerator, keeps the natural gas furnace blower motor working in the winter, and the sewerage pump (my house is below the sewer line, and everything has to be "pumped" out). As it was I had to use a clever relay circuit to "disable" the low voltage controls on my central AC, to keep the AC compressors from trying to start when the house is on "Generator power". The house should have had a 20KW generator, but it doesn't...
 
bradford said:
suppose my 'official' installation isn't scheduled til next year, couldn't i have the wiring, breaker, etc put in this year out to some box in my garage and get the tax credit for that much of it?? next year the charging unit will just 'pop' on and i'll have to pay full for that (few hundred$?)?
I doubt you would get any credit (against 2010 taxes) at all for doing that. As mitch672 pointed out, you need to have the complete system "in service" before you can take the credit.

But don't forget that there is currently a bill working its way through Congress that may give you an even better deal next year - still the 50% credit, but the limit raised from $2000 to $4000. Of course that's called "counting your chickens before they've hatched."
 
I believe that a 40-amp breaker is not REQUIRED, but is better to allow for the possible future upgrade to 6.6 kW (4-hour) charging.

However, a 20-amp breaker can provide the 15 (or 16) amps needed for the current 3.3 kW (8-hour) charging of the LEAF.

If you have to do rewiring anyway, it is almost the same cost to do the 40-amp install. However, in some cases (like mine) I can probably get by without a panel and trenching for a service upgrade if I just add a 20-amp circuit.
 
My evaluation is scheduled for July 1.

With the 50 percent federal tax credit available this year (up to $2,000) for EVSE installation, I would like the installer to future proof the electrical service.
When the electrician comes for my July 1 evaluation, I wonder how much future proofing he is allowed to do under the Aerovironment contract?

Ideas I have for future proofing my home include:

An upgrade to 200 Amp Service with a 40 Amp Breaker supporting the EVSE. My breaker box is full so I'll need a sub-panel, or bigger replacement panel with or without this upgrade.
(I could squeak by with a 20 Amp breaker/sub-panel attached to my 100 Amp service for the current Leaf (with a tiny 3.3 kw built-in charger), but in the future?).

Use heavier gauge wire in the conduit to the EVSE, so if I replace the EVSE in the future with a 70 Amp one, I don't need to replace the wiring.
(The J-1772 connector is designed to handle up to 70 Amps, so a future proof sub-panel should be able to handle a 90 Amp breaker, to support a 70 Amp capable EVSE that will undoubtedly be available to match the connector limit.)

Run a conduit to support a second EVSE for when I have two electric cars.
(I have a Tesla Model S on order, too).

Of course, if the future proofing results in a cost exceeding this year's $2,000 tax credit limit, I'll postpone some of the future proofing until my second electric car arrives.

Maybe the electrician will be allowed to provide two estimates. One with future proofing, the other without. The Nissan/Aerovironment planning team should consider this.
 
I eagerly await the results of your assessment.
Please ask about the cost of a replacement "e-hose", a replacement EVSE, a longer e-hose, their warranty, if they will install plug-in (as allowed by NEC 625), and consider asking for an itemized bid, to allow you to choose the items you want.
 
Nothing yet. Did you receive an email or was it a message at your Leaf registration?

Should I be worried?
 
I'll be needing to put the charger on a separate meter for time-of-day pricing. Certainly don't want to be paying "Tier3" electric rates for that!

Question is -- should I just discuss during with the EVSE visit, or should I be pursuing this as a separate activity?

Also, I don't even know what my actual service is rated at (amps); how do I find that out?
 
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