Nissan's Included L1 (120v) EVSE

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garygid said:
The "cut off the plug" suggestion might invalidate the EVSE's UL Listing, right?
But the plug wouldn't even have to be cut off. Just plug it in to an adapter ;)

I tend to agree that the difference between the US-standard version and the UK-standard version is likely just one or two small internal parts and a jumper wire. Or something like that. Can't wait to see some pics when someone does manage to take one apart!
 
I don't think there is anyone out there that has an EVSE with the proper expertise. I offered to evaluate one but no takers.
 
One person tried to get the screw-hole "plugs" out, but was unable to do so easily.

Perhaps these plugs are not easily "removable", to make tampering obvious for warranty coverage?
 
It's not unusual for plugs like that to require pliers to be pulled. Without seeing one it's difficult to tell. Difficult is a subjective term.
 
EVDRIVER said:
It's not unusual for plugs like that to require pliers to be pulled. Without seeing one it's difficult to tell. Difficult is a subjective term.
These "plugs" look more like hard plastic "rivets" to me and certainly not "feet". I suspect the sides of the unit are glued together as well. I am also thinking that there might be additional fasteners under the label on both the front and back of the unit. Perhaps getting some good photos of the unit and posting them here will help this endeavor.

Right now I am relying on this EVSE to charge the Leaf so I am not comfortable attempting to take my unit apart at this time.
 
Seems a gentleman that goes by the name of Phil has figured out how to enable 240v on these units and is discussed here http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2707&start=0
 
garygid said:
This EVSE is for 120v use only, and is intended for the USA marketplace.

It probably has a "max-current" setting of 12 amps, intended to work well on an otherwise-unloaded 15-amp circuit. However, it is also intended to be used on a 120v 20-amp circuit.

To allow the very limited 1.44 kW (120v times 12 amps = 1440 watts) usage, it asks the attached car to not draw more than (approximately) 12 amps (we assume).

Apparently it is about 25 feet in total length, with its small, 3-indicator, no-controls EVSE "box" within about 18" of the wall-pkug end.

Being small and light weight, it (with the coiled cord and two onnectors) fits into a small "storage" bag, for easier "clean" transportation.

I would recommend including a cleaning rag in the "bag", to wipe dirt and grime off the cord after it is used.

Modification possibilities:
Illegal, and currently unknown.

Possible Variations:
1. Allow the car to draw 16 amps, only for use on 20-amp circuits (which are fairly common in garages). It is not known if the charger in the LEAF would use the extra 4 amps of current, but it easily could.
2. Limit "max-current" to 8 amps to use the EVSE on older 10-amp circuits.
3. Design a 120/240v version that could work "almost anywhere" (my favorite). ;)

Does anyone know how to purchase an emergency trickle charge cable as a separate accessory? Anyone heard a price?
 
batesa7 said:
Does anyone know how to purchase an emergency trickle charge cable as a separate accessory? Anyone heard a price?

The information was originally posted in these Forums, but I don't recall the thread.

In any case, you can find what you need here:
http://www.pluginamerica.org/accessories/nissan-29690

The kit retails for $508.

I'm weighing buying one of these early and having it converted vs. buying an EVSE. The lower amperage, however, and the relatively similar cost (to an AV unit) has me leaning toward the AV unit. If one of these could be had for closer to $300, the equation would change.
 
sorry if this is answered before, but how much is the standby power draw (i.e. plugged in but not charging)? Will be using it as my de-facto charger for a while so I would like to know if I should unplug it from the 120V outlet everytime I am done. Thanks!

ps. garygid if you don't mind, can you add this to the first post once the info is available? Would help others out too I would imagine thanks
 
lettcco said:
sorry if this is answered before, but how much is the standby power draw (i.e. plugged in but not charging)? Will be using it as my de-facto charger for a while so I would like to know if I should unplug it from the 120V outlet everytime I am done. Thanks!

ps. garygid if you don't mind, can you add this to the first post once the info is available? Would help others out too I would imagine thanks

My Kill-a-watt shows "zero" standby draw (it is capable of registering single watts), but there must be a little standby power since two LEDs are lit.
 
Just to throw my 2 cents into this discussion.

We've had our Leaf for about a week now. We've been only charging it with L1 EVSE. It does take a while to charge, though. My wife drives the car about 45 miles and when she comes home in the evening she plugs it in and it is just topping off to 100% by the time she leaves for work the next morning. So the problem with the L1 is simply that it would not be possible to make daily use of the Leaf's 100-mile range because it would be impossible to recharge it overnight if it were totally depleted. I suspect that is why Nissan is pushing the L2.

We're getting the L2 EVSE installed this week. However, I am hoping to get a second leaf for myself eventually. Since I only work 5 miles from home, I'll probably just charge mine with the L1 and let my wife use the L2.
 
adric22 said:
Just to throw my 2 cents into this discussion.

We've had our Leaf for about a week now. We've been only charging it with L1 EVSE. It does take a while to charge, though. My wife drives the car about 45 miles and when she comes home in the evening she plugs it in and it is just topping off to 100% by the time she leaves for work the next morning. So the problem with the L1 is simply that it would not be possible to make daily use of the Leaf's 100-mile range because it would be impossible to recharge it overnight if it were totally depleted. I suspect that is why Nissan is pushing the L2.

We're getting the L2 EVSE installed this week. However, I am hoping to get a second leaf for myself eventually. Since I only work 5 miles from home, I'll probably just charge mine with the L1 and let my wife use the L2.
If you're only charging at home, having a dedicated Level 2 EVSE makes a lot of sense. From my daily commute, I've found that I could get away with Level 1 charging only if I needed to, but that's because I'm also able to charge at work. Drive 25 miles to work, plug in and charge for 6 hours, drive 25 miles home, charge for 6 hours.

It's interesting to note that in the UK, the included EVSE is the equivalent of a Level 2 unit (EVSEupgrade.com) and all the Nissan dealerships are installing DC Quick Chargers...
 
DarkStar said:
adric22 said:
It's interesting to note that in the UK, the included EVSE is the equivalent of a Level 2 unit (EVSEupgrade.com) and all the Nissan dealerships are installing DC Quick Chargers...


I would not count on that for sure, there is no evidence it can operate at 120V. As a side not, someone has plugged their stock 120V EVSE into 240 without modification, it blew up FYI.
 
adric22 said:
Just to throw my 2 cents into this discussion.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . snip
Since I only work 5 miles from home, I'll probably just charge mine with the L1 and let my wife use the L2.
(weather permitting) Why not just bike to work? I'd LOVE to be that close to work. If there were 'non-skuzzy' homes/safer areas near work, we'd move in a heart beat. Back when we couldn't afford to live in the safest communities, work was 6 miles out, and I could make it in about 20 minutes. Now that we're 19 miles (as the crow flys) from work, that's WELL over an hour each way! ... I'd need to take a shower after hump'n and pump'n for THAT long on a bike. :D
 
(weather permitting) Why not just bike to work? I'd LOVE to be that close to work.

There are two serious problems with that idea. First of all, there are lots of hills where I live. Just biking 1 or 2 miles will wear me out beyond belief. I would have to bike 5 miles, that would take me 90 minutes to get to work and I'd be a sweaty, exhausted mess.. Also I live in Texas so it is usually either super hot or freezing cold with a 90 mph wind. There seems to be no in-between weather.

Second problem, I have to take my 8-year-old daughter to school in the mornings. That is about 2 miles into the trip. So I'd be asking her to bike 2 miles or ride with me, increasing my pain...

No thanks.
 
Just curious how everyone feels about letting that heavy box hang from an electrical outlet? I find it highly annoying how that is designed. They could have at least put one of those 90-degree angle plugs on the cable so it hangs nicely. I'm thinking about making a little shelf on the wall next to my garage plug so that I can sit the box on it while it is plugged in.
 
adric22 said:
Just curious how everyone feels about letting that heavy box hang from an electrical outlet? I find it highly annoying how that is designed. They could have at least put one of those 90-degree angle plugs on the cable so it hangs nicely. I'm thinking about making a little shelf on the wall next to my garage plug so that I can sit the box on it while it is plugged in.

Yes, it's an issue. The standard requires that little short cord.

If you look, you'll note the EVSE has 4 holes on it's ends, which can be used to hang it. You can use a s-hook, bungie, etc.

If you are semi-permanently using the EVSE, you can simply put a couple of 3" drywall screws in, one each on a hole in each end, through to a stud.

-Phil
 
Interesting thread. I use my L1 EVSE at work in the parking garage while at work each weekday (9 hours) to recharge about 35 miles. Generally takes about 6-7 hours.

The garage walls are solid concrete and I have found a few spots in the garage where there are items attached to the walls (pipes, conduit, etc) where I can be creative and use the velcro straps to hang the GFCI box of the EVSE unit safely and securely. The outlets are about 4 feet off of the ground and the cord is not safe to leave unsecured.

Has anyone investigated or found some sort of self-adhesive velcro or putty or other item that might secure the GFCI box portion to a concrete wall? One of the issues I have in the parking garage is there are no assigned spaces, only first-come first-serve if I don't arrive at my normal 7:30am (when I can almost always park wherever I want)...

Or, is a 4-ft 10amp cord a viable option that won't void my warranty if something bad happens?
 
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