Nissan's Included L1 (120v) EVSE

[garygid]

The first person to (SAFELY and CAREFULLY):

1. Remove this L1 EVSE from all external connections,
2. Remove the 6 "plugs" (that look like "feet") that probably cover the screws,
3. Remove the 6 screws,
4. Carefully open the case,
5. And post good, clear, closeup pictures of the "guts" ...

Wins the First-Investigator "backslap" of Congratulation.

 

[EVDRIVER]

There is no danger unless you are stupid enough to leave it plugged in. Like many auto maker parts, this 120v EVSE is very pricey for it's build cost.

 

[garygid]

Apparently the J1772 Standards-setting people, with all their collected experience and expertise, did not consider "public" uses of EVSEs very well.

I suspect that it might take only a few minutes to remove a whole wall-mounted AV EVSE. Removing the e-hose is probably even easier. They could have designed in a security-system alarm switch for either event.

Removing this L1 EVSE would be almost trivial, in many cases.

Is this a possible "solution": "Lock" the EVSE brick (and its power-in pigtail) under the hood (or inside the car), and use an extension cord to get power from the "source" to the EVSE pigtail?

 

[garygid]

The crush-proof, water-proof case and connections is one "expense".
Also, the crush-proof cable and J1772 plug are still a bit expensive.

Considering those "requirements", a $200 wholesale price
(about $400 retail) is not too bad, I suspect.

 

[EVDRIVER]

The crush-proof, water-proof case and connections is one "expense".
Also, the crush-proof cable and J1772 plug are still a bit expensive.

Considering those "requirements", a $200 wholesale price
(about $400 retail) is not too bad, I suspect.

Cords and plastic cases with an o ring are not expensive, particularly to Nissan in their numbers. I believe the retail is $640 and wholesale over $400. Where did you see retail $400? I bet Nissan pays under $125 for this unit complete with case.

 

[DarkStar]

Has anybody been able to find a J1772 plug (hose) for less than $200 yet?

 

[EVDRIVER]

Has anybody been able to find a J1772 plug (hose) for less than $200 yet?

Yes and a 80A with cord for under $200. There is a large cost difference between the low and high power as more companies make the former.

 

[Jimmydreams]

The first person to (SAFELY and CAREFULLY):

1. Remove this L1 EVSE from all external connections,
2. Remove the 6 "plugs" (that look like "feet") that probably cover the screws,
3. Remove the 6 screws,
4. Carefully open the case,
5. And post good, clear, closeup pictures of the "guts" ...

Wins the First-Investigator "backslap" of Congratulation.

Gary...

I'm not saying that I tried ( :? ) but those little rubber plugs are stuck in there pretty good. I can't see any way of getting them out without damaging them or the surrounding case. Just FYI.

 

[planet4ever]

Rather than disassemble and modify a 12A EVSE, I keep hoping that someone will see the light and market a UL-approved 16A 120V EVSE with the neutral blade at right angles so it can only be inserted into a 20A outlet.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Rather than disassemble and modify a 12A EVSE, I keep hoping that someone will see the light and market a UL-approved 16A 120V EVSE with the neutral blade at right angles so it can only be inserted into a 20A outlet.

There is no need to modify the inside to accomplish this, it would take 10 minutes at the cord end. The only reason to modify the inside is for a universal 120/240 operation or straight 240.

 

[DarkStar]

Rather than disassemble and modify a 12A EVSE, I keep hoping that someone will see the light and market a UL-approved 16A 120V EVSE with the neutral blade at right angles so it can only be inserted into a 20A outlet.

One of my personal theories is that the Nissan Level 1 EVSE might be jumper settable to 16 amps for the Japanese market and that they use an auto-ranging power supply for the PWM signal generator... Unfortunately it looks like we won't know until I take mine apart (unless someone else is willing to post pictures for Gary and I)!

 

[planet4ever]

Rather than disassemble and modify a 12A EVSE, I keep hoping that someone will see the light and market a UL-approved 16A 120V EVSE with the neutral blade at right angles so it can only be inserted into a 20A outlet.

There is no need to modify the inside to accomplish this, it would take 10 minutes at the cord end. The only reason to modify the inside is for a universal 120/240 operation or straight 240.

I don't believe you. The car won't pull 16 amps at 120 volts unless the EVSE says it can. And there is no way for either the car or the EVSE to auto-detect whether a 120V power source is 15A or 20A.

[Well, I suppose it could make a guess by trying to pull 20A and seeing how much of a voltage drop that causes, but I can't believe UL would approve anything that pulled a trick like that.]

 

[garygid]

The Control Pilot would need to be changed to offer 16 amps (26.7% PWM) instead of 12 amps (20% PWM). Presumably this is an internal modification.

And, "UL-Listing" was part of the "specification" of the desired EVSE. The "cut off the plug" suggestion might invalidate the EVSE's UL Listing, right?

 

[DarkStar]

The "cut off the plug" suggestion might invalidate the EVSE's UL Listing, right?

Does it matter?

 

[garygid]

UL might not matter to you, me, or some others, but apparently UL mattered to "p4e" since he specified it in his post.

 

[garygid]

Perhaps the SPX "all-voltage" EVSE, with its "field-adjustable" Max-Current setting, will be close enough to meet his (and my) needs.

 

[EVDRIVER]

The "cut off the plug" suggestion might invalidate the EVSE's UL Listing, right?

Does it matter?

The plug will not change the functional rating, people get plain silly about the UL ratings. As long as it is a proper plug there should be no concerns.

 

[DaveinOlyWA]

Consumers drive after market products. i bet within a year, we will have multitudes of options

 

[EVDRIVER]

Rather than disassemble and modify a 12A EVSE, I keep hoping that someone will see the light and market a UL-approved 16A 120V EVSE with the neutral blade at right angles so it can only be inserted into a 20A outlet.

There is no need to modify the inside to accomplish this, it would take 10 minutes at the cord end. The only reason to modify the inside is for a universal 120/240 operation or straight 240.

I don't believe you. The car won't pull 16 amps at 120 volts unless the EVSE says it can. And there is no way for either the car or the EVSE to auto-detect whether a 120V power source is 15A or 20A.

[Well, I suppose it could make a guess by trying to pull 20A and seeing how much of a voltage drop that causes, but I can't believe UL would approve anything that pulled a trick like that.]

Correction, my fault. I meant to use on a 20A circuit, not to draw- sorry.

 

[EVDRIVER]

Does anyone have an L1 EVSE they would like to share for a week or so. If you send it to me I can open it and check to see if it can be modified and what that would require. I would ensure no damage to the unit and that if it could be modified to a 120/240 or straight 240 unit I could do the work on your behalf if desired. There would be no risk and you could possibly have an opportunity for a universal and portable EVSE. I will put my EV electrical engineer on the project that has extensive EV engineering and repair experience. Please send me a PM if you are serious.