Rear wheel tyres wearing

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There is a way to adjust rear camber and toe-in by using metal shims between the beam axle flange and the rear hub. Shim thickness approximately 1/6 the amount of correction needed, e.g. add 1.3mm to the top 2 bolts to de-camber, and 0.36mm to the front 2 bolts to take out the toe-in.

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Newbuilder said:
Are these Nissan approved? Where do I get them in the UK and how does this interfere with warranty?”

I don't necessarily recommend Aluminum for this application, but the following passage is a pleasant way to convey what a shim IS, and why you don't have to worry about where to get them.

Edit:fixed book reference

Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (Robert Pirsig) said:
His handlebars had started slipping. Not badly, he said, just a little when you shoved hard on them. I warned him not to use his adjustable wrench on the tightening nuts. It was likely to damage the chrome and start small rust spots. He agreed to use my metric sockets and box-ends. When he brought his motorcycle over I got my wrenches out but then noticed that no amount of tightening would stop the slippage, because the ends of the collars were pinched shut.

“You’re going to have to shim those out,” I said.

“What’s shim?”

“It’s a thin, flat strip of metal. You just slip it around the handlebar under the collar there and it will open up the collar to where you can tighten it again. You use shims like that to make adjustments in all kinds of machines.”

“Oh,” he said. He was getting interested. “Good. Where do you buy them?”

“I’ve got some right here,” I said gleefully, holding up a can of beer in my hand.

He didn’t understand for a moment. Then he said, “What, the can?”

“Sure,” I said, “best shim stock in the world.”

I thought this was pretty clever myself. Save him a trip to God knows where to get shim stock. Save him time. Save him money.

But to my surprise he didn’t see the cleverness of this at all. In fact he got noticeably haughty about the whole thing. Pretty soon he was dodging and filling with all kinds of excuses and, before I realized what his real attitude was, we had decided not to fix the handlebars after all.

As far as I know those handlebars are still loose. And I believe now that he was actually offended at the time. I had had the nerve to propose repair of his new eighteen-hundred dollar BMW, the pride of a half-century of German mechanical finesse, with a piece of old beer can!

Ach, du lieber!

Since then we have had very few conversations about motorcycle maintenance. None, now that I think of it. You push it any further and suddenly you are angry, without knowing why.

I should say, to explain this, that beer-can aluminum is soft and sticky, as metals go. Perfect for the application. Aluminum doesn’t oxidize in wet weather…or, more precisely, it always has a thin layer of oxide that prevents any further oxidation. Also perfect.

In other words, any true German mechanic, with a half-century of mechanical finesse behind him, would have concluded that this particular solution to this particular technical problem was perfect.

For a while I thought what I should have done was sneak over to the workbench, cut a shim from the beer can, remove the printing and then come back and tell him we were in luck, it was the last one I had, specially imported from Germany. That would have done it. A special shim from the private stock of Baron Alfred Krupp, who had to sell it at a great sacrifice. Then he would have gone gaga over it.

That Krupp’s-private-shim fantasy gratified me for a while, but then it wore off and I saw it was just being vindictive. In its place grew that old feeling I’ve talked about before, a feeling that there’s something bigger involved than is apparent on the surface. You follow these little discrepancies long enough and they sometimes open up into huge revelations. There was just a feeling on my part that this was something a little bigger than I wanted to take on without thinking about it, and I turned instead to my usual habit of trying to extract causes and effects to see what was involved that could possibly lead to such an impasse between John’s view of that lovely shim and my own. This comes up all the time in mechanical work. A hang-up. You just sit and stare and think, and search randomly for new information, and go away and come back again, and after a while the unseen factors start to emerge.

What emerged in vague form at first and then in sharper outline was the explanation that I had been seeing that shim in a kind of intellectual, rational, cerebral way in which the scientific properties of the metal were all that counted. John was going at it immediately and intuitively, grooving on it. I was going at it in terms of underlying form. He was going at it in terms of immediate appearance. I was seeing what the shim meant. He was seeing what the shim was.
 
Thanks but

a) is it going to null my warranty

b) the quote explains what a shim is but the material will need to be suitable for the wear

c) if I am getting outside edge wearing where do I put the shim

d) what material should it be?
 
I'd get an alignment done and then add shims based on the results of that. I also wouldn't worry too much about the material used since there should be no movement so no significant wear. If you care, stainless steel would probably be the best choice but any kind of used to make a metal shims would probably be fine. One option would be to use parts from a feeler gauge since they come in various thicknesses and are usually stainless steel. EG https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Feeler-Marked-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B081CTGQYC?th=1
 
Those are legal questions and only a lawyer can give legal advice.

Maybe best to ignore the shim idea, and just drive and enjoy the fun of your EV; you might have to buy a few tires along the way but it is a small price to pay for sleeping without worry.
 
I got the same issue. Nissan Richmond, BC asks for $4000 for the part replacement in order to fix the alignment issue. I guess it is the design issue. The rear alignment is NOT ADJUSTABLE because Nissia is using a cheap design to compress the cost of the car. Another car can be adjusted for four wheels (toe and camber).

Finally, I talked to my friend. He told me I can bring my car to Kal Tire and install the "Alignment Trim" to adjust the issue. Kal Tire charge me around $700 for it. finally, I got one rear wheel completely fixed and one rear wheel fixed the camber and toe still out but much better than before. I am happy with it. End up, I purchased two new tires from them (move the old set of tires to the back and install a new set of tires to the front)
 
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