The official "I actually have a new EVSE installed" thread

[KeiJidosha]

Thanks for posting the pic's. Nice to know what kind of work to expect. I will call Monday to cancel my order with AV.

 

[garygid]

To keep the AV EVSE "weather tight" for outside installs, there might NOT be a knock-out on the rear of the unit (to use to bring in any wiring from the rear).

 

[garygid]

These "40-amp" (30 amp output) L2 (240v) EVSEs are not:
1. more than 60 amps
2. more than 150v (AC) from ground (they are +120 and -120 from ground).

So, it would appear that the "local disconnect" is NOT required by NEC, but might be required locally, or by some inspectors.

When installing the wiring in the wall, adding a switchbox suitable for mounting a wall switch (double-pole for a 40A 240v circuit) would be nice.

 

[kolmstead]

Gary may be right. Good question for AV. At any rate, if you want a 'clean' installation, your contractor will probably have to remove some wallboard, and you will have to pay to have it repaired. In most installations, the feed would need to pass through studs in the wall, and it's pretty tough to drill holes in studs that you have no access to. Wires don't magically 'find' their way to the EVSE; somebody needs to make a passage for them. Outside the wall is quick and easy. Inside is more difficult and costly. If you have a brick or concrete block garage, your only choice is where the conduit goes; inside or outside.

I doubt that the disconnect is required in most areas. That's more of a requirement for things like machine tools or air compressors, where maintenance needs to be done, and the service person needs to be protected from others turning on the power while he's working on the machine. I don't remember seeing a disconnect on any of the AV quotes I've seen online.

The contractor is going to hook up your EVSE in the quickest way he/she can, unless you take control. If you don't want EMT or Liquidtight on your garage wall, make that clear. If you pay them $2200 or more for an ugly installation, you have only yourself to blame. The installations I've seen so far should cost about $1200; $720 for the EVSE, and $450 or so for a quick surface conduit run, a 40A breaker, and fifteen or twenty feet of three or four conductor #8 wire.

You're paying for the installation. Talk it over with the contractor. There should be no surprises. Both parties should understand exactly what is going to be done and how it will look.

 

[mwalsh]

Gary may be right. Good question for AV. At any rate, if you want a 'clean' installation, your contractor will probably have to remove some wallboard, and you will have to pay to have it repaired. In most installations, the feed would need to pass through studs in the wall, and it's pretty tough to drill holes in studs that you have no access to.

One of the reasons I want my service panel upgrade electrician to do the electrical work for me - with the service panel out, he has clear access to drill through the maybe 2 studs required for the wiring and it shouldn't be a big deal to cut out the wallboard for the junction box. Even if we needed to cut oversize so the box can be fastened to the stud, it's an easy repair, or maybe the EVSE will cover over any nastiness without any repair being necessary!

 

[wwhitney]

I doubt that the disconnect is required in most areas.

I haven't researched the disconnect requirements, but it is worth noting that most such requirements allow a "breaker lock" as an alternative. The quote from NEC 625 earlier in the thread mentions this, for example. A "breaker lock" is a metal bracket that mounts permanently to your electrical panel and allows the use of a padlock to keep the breaker in the off position. They are relatively inexpensive, since it is a just a metal bracket, although it is specific to your electrical panel brand. [Note that there are also universal "breaker locks" that don't mount permanently to the panel; that type is not generally allowed as a substitute for a disconnect.]

So if you don't want to see a disconnect but run into a local requirement for one, check if a breaker lock would be sufficient.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[garygid]

As an example, search Google for:
breaker lockout drillspot.com
to see a "universal" clamp-on type, for $7 + $6 shipping.

 

[Adrian]

Just had my charger installed this Friday. It looks pretty much like the rest of the pictures posted here. Install is inside garage, directly behind the breaker box. It took 2 hours of labor, but they still charged $2,400.

 

[tps]

It took 2 hours of labor, but they still charged $2,400.

Hmm... I guess I should become an electrician. $1200/hr?

 

[smkettner]

For a thousand dollars, I'd expect a much neater installation. All of these photos look like DIY jobs. All the more reason to stay away from AV and go with a good local contractor.

x2 and for the price I would expect it to look very much like the Nissan video. AV is the Nissan contractor after all :roll:

http://www.nissanusa.com/leaf-elect...ectric-car/video/all/LEAF_technology/charging

Can someone post a screen shot from the video on how Nissan demonstrates how it will look?
See also the surface mount wiring bracket at about 1:22 in the video.

 

[mwalsh]

Can someone post a screen shot from the video on how Nissan demonstrates how it will look? See also the surface mount wiring bracket at about 1:22 in the video.

Yeah! For $2200 that's what I want....right there:

 

[Adrian]

It took 2 hours of labor, but they still charged $2,400.

Hmm... I guess I should become an electrician. $1200/hr?

$2400 was the total price including the charger and install. Still very steep for labor.

 

[tps]

See also the surface mount wiring bracket at about 1:22 in the video.

How long will it be before some manufacturer produces a flush mount EVSE? IMHO, even if the AV unit is wired from behind as shown in the Nissan video, it still sticks out too far from the wall. Although the circuitry wouldn't likely fit in a double gang box, I've certainly installed fairly large flush mount electrical devices, such as electrical space heaters (in the bathroom) and breaker panels.

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

The installation shown in that video is bogus and wouldn't pass inspection even though it looks pretty. You can't have those individual conductors running through the wall like that; they would have to either be in conduit, or 8/2 + G or 8/3 + G romex with a strain relief.

 

[mwalsh]

8/2 + G or 8/3 + G romex with a strain relief.

But that can be ran through a wall (but not in conduit), right?

 

[garygid]

Romex through the wall and bracket (not touching metal parts, or through a clamp), then into the EVSE, clamped there if not clamped at the bracket?

Or, through the bracket and only clamped at the EVSE entrance?

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

But that can be ran through a wall (but not in conduit), right?

Local codes could vary I suppose, but in general yes, romex is used inside walls without conduit, surface mounting requires conduit that would have individual conductors pulled.

I didn't see anything wrong with the installations in the pictures... although it sounds like people are being overcharged for them.

 

[smkettner]

The installation shown in that video is bogus and wouldn't pass inspection even though it looks pretty. You can't have those individual conductors running through the wall like that; they would have to either be in conduit, or 8/2 + G or 8/3 + G romex with a strain relief.

How do you know there is not a J-box behind the wall with conduit attached?
Or Romex to a J-box and the sheathing is just pealed off?

Otherwise it is certainly doable within code. I would certainly expect no less for the price they charge.
I plan to install a recessed 6-20r next to the Leviton unit. There will be NO exposed conduit in my finished garage.

 

[wwhitney]

But that can be ran through a wall (but not in conduit), right?

Romex can be run through conduit, either just a few pieces used as protection where the cable would otherwise be exposed to physical damage, or a complete conduit system, where the Romex is just treated as a really big wire. The latter case almost never makes sense, though, because once you have a complete conduit system you are better off running individual conductors like THHN.

Cheers, Wayne

 

[LTLFTcomposite]

How do you know there is not a J-box behind the wall with conduit attached?
Or Romex to a J-box and the sheathing is just pealed off?

If they do, then that's another violation... you aren't allowed to "bury" a junction box behind drywall.