TIRES - why you'll never get them replaced under warranty

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There are two different Ecopia's that I am seeing. Ecopia EP422 PLUS and Ecopia EP422. The Plus is advertised with a Platinum Pact Warranty while the other has a 65,000 mile warranty. The Plus has a higher load range an is the same diameter 24.88 in however the Plus is rated at 837 revolutions per mile compared to 833 for the plain Ecopia. The Plus is $10 cheaper at Costco than the "Plain" version though the name makes it appear that your getting something more.

Further checking on the Firestones web sit indicates the Plus has a 70,000 mile warranty so the Plus is an additional 5,000 miles however the greater revolutions per mile make it appear that it has more cush or rolling resistance so range per charge on the Leaf may be reduced. While the regular Ecopia tire is listed as $4 more at Firestones store than at Costco they have a $70 rebate (via a Visa Gift Card) on a set of 4 which is doubled if you use their charge card.

All that said the OEM Ecopia on my 2014 S with 17,000 miles on them look more like what I expect at 40,000+ miles from OEM tires on vehicles from other manufacturers that I have owned.

I have been getting the $99 lifetime alignment from Firestone on my cars and they will check and realign the car (if it needs it) every time you bring it in for a check even of its monthly for as long as you own the car. If Bridgestone insists on a ridiculous alignment schedule then get the lifetime alignment at their own chain of Firestone service centers and then let them pay their own people to recheck it every 6 months to keep the warranty in force.

More on topic at Sam's Club my daughter has received a full set of 4 tires at no charge twice on the road hazard warranty. At Sam's they do not have the Ecopia but Leaf owners there claim the Michelin Eco that they replaced the Ecopia with gave them better range. They do cost about $60 more per tire than the Ecopia and the warranty is only for 50,000 miles.
 
Yeah I barely got 20 thousand miles on the stock tires garbage. The replacements have 25k and look just fine.
 
nerys said:
Yeah I barely got 20 thousand miles on the stock tires garbage. The replacements have 25k and look just fine.

Has someone from the computer printer industry started working for Nissan? Its beginning to look very similar to the quarter full print cartridge that an inkjet printer ships with instead of a regular one.

Maybe I am getting too old and am living in the past where you got 40,000/50,000 mile tires with a new car unless you bought something with some 6,000 mile specialty racing tires.
 
Yeah tire warranty is just a racket.

That said, the oem leaf tires are just fine if you keep them inflated to 44psi +

Gen I volt had blowout issues also, keeping the tires at sidewall max nets 50,000 miles on them.
 
I am quite used to getting 80 or 90 thousand miles on the set of tires the oem tires suck (yes i keep them at 45psi) now I got the exact same tires to replace them from a third party and they seem to be holding up fine although I stopped getting a ecopias now as I found other tires cheaper that don't seem to affect my range at least not enough for me to notice
 
nerys said:
I am quite used to getting 80 or 90 thousand miles on the set of tires the oem tires suck (yes i keep them at 45psi) now I got the exact same tires to replace them from a third party and they seem to be holding up fine although I stopped getting a ecopias now as I found other tires cheaper that don't seem to affect my range at least not enough for me to notice

which tires did you get??
 
The first 2 I got were ECOPIA's around $102 a pop. they are holding up fine so far (30,000 miles since I got them a bit over a year ago)

I had to replace the last 2 OEM ecopias (they were really worn kept them longer than ideal but phooey) replaced then with a slick deal I got online at walmart

https://www.walmart.com/ip/49651287

got them onlsale $44 IIRC. they also seem to be working just fine. only have a few thousand miles on them so far.
 
Follow up to my earlier post about getting a FREE replacement tire when I got a nail in my 22k 5+ year-old OEM tire;
The Nissan dealer service department admitted that they made an error (surprise!) thinking that the tire was covered under the extended warranty.
In reality, it should NOT have been free.
I offered to pay and they said NO - as a "good customer" we will be happy to give you the tire at no charge.
I'm happy!
 
nerys said:
The first 2 I got were ECOPIA's around $102 a pop. they are holding up fine so far (30,000 miles since I got them a bit over a year ago)

I had to replace the last 2 OEM ecopias (they were really worn kept them longer than ideal but phooey) replaced then with a slick deal I got online at walmart

https://www.walmart.com/ip/49651287

got them onlsale $44 IIRC. they also seem to be working just fine. only have a few thousand miles on them so far.

Too bad the temperature rating on those is a B. What part of the country are you running them in?

I was considering the Rydanz that have a more appropriate temperature rating for Tampa Bay:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rydanz-ROADSTER-R02-Tire-P205-55R16-94W/52292506#about

The Sumitomo Solar also look good with traction and temperature rated at A:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/205-55R16-91H-SOLAR-4XS-Tires/52943297#about
 
Southeast Pennsylvania east of Philadelphia. what does the temperature rating mean? I also just noticed that the Goodyear Viva 3 all seasons are only 69 bucks that's pretty cheap are they any good?
 
The Temperature Resistance ratings indicate the tires ability to shed heat and stay cool. C meets the minimum standard while B is better however A is best. They relate to initial speed rating however that is when a tire is new and the temperature resistance rating does not supersede the speed rating. Generally in the Deep South you want the tire with the A temperature rating. C has the ability to shed temperature at 85 mph + in laboratory conditions at a controlled temperature when the tire is inflated per the load chart, B is rated at over 100 and A over 115. I do not drive under laboratory controlled temperatures though and based on the evidence lockers around here full of vehicles that were in accidents with injuries due to tire failures one would be wise to bypass C altogether and really only consider B if they rarely if ever drove at highway speeds. In the cooler North you could get away with B and possible even C if you don't take the car South with you. Too many tire related accidents around here are by Northern Tourists riding on older B or C rated tires that just can't take the heat. When Florida ambient temps hover in the 90's roadway temps can be well over 110 with roadway surfaces near to searing. Its not unusual to see the engine temperature gauge on a car parked out in the sun that has not been started for over a day sitting at well over 120 degrees F during the dog days of summer.
 
I have 26K miles on my regular Ecopias, and they are just now starting to lose the "new" look and feel. I see people with bad stories here and think that it also depends on HOW you drive the car, not the mileage. On this car, the aggressiveness of your turning will determine a lot of how they wear. When I turn the Leaf at a slow speed (5mph) I hear them squeaking, which shows that they are rubbing more than when they go straight... I have a Miata that I drive "vigorously" and need to rotate them frequently because the front tires get beaten ALOT, and the tires are worn by 25K or less....
 
It is so weird that in many parts of US people do a process called "tire rotation". Even though you have
very hot summers and even snow in some places people tend to drive on only one set of tires somehow.

This is so weird. Do drivers really think that there are such things like "all-season" tires that are excellent or even good
in every weather scenario? Or that it is fine to travel on summer tires when it is freezing outside :eek:
Or that if it cold but it will never snow/rain it is fine to use summer tires. Of course there are more failures.

Either you have temperatures below 7C / 44F or you don't. If you have them, you should use another set of tires.
(below 0C / 32F pure winter tire or M/S is the best). If not, use SUMMER tires, not all-weather. It is that easy :)
The only reasonable temperature to use all-weather tires all year around is if climate is often between 0C-7C (32F-44F)
and never goes really warm nor there is ice/snow/slush on the road.

Second set also means no need to waste money/time on tire rotation alone. It is done during changing the set.
Summer tires are much more capable in hot temperatures. Winter tires beat everything else on snow, ice and even clean
dry pavement that is cold as hell. Summer/all-season tires are hard like plastic during cold period. Hardly marginal performance :roll:
Also wheels should be rebalanced, not only tires rotated. It is not possible balance at home. Unbalanced tire means
faster suspension wear, more problems for stability and most important: "randomly rupturing tire".

Looking on the map more than half of states get way below 44F in January.

7C is the limit where summer tire compound stops being soft enough and winter tire compound is hard enough for best results.
Also anything for snow looks very different compared to water, dry asphalt....

Just give me a thread pattern and don't mention manufacturer nor type. I will "guess" the appropriate season :lol:
 
Most of us if we use our heads it just doesn't matter I use the same tires year round I only use snow tires if I know i will be driving in snow now granted I don't really Drive Highway I'm typically 40 miles an hour or less surface streets and I drive to the conditions bad conditions means you drive slower I never really have a problem if I truly get stuck that is what chains are for.

I don't know about most people but I can't afford to be buying two different sets of tires to store year round especially considering they degrade whether you use them or not.
 
Recommendation is that tires should be used within 7 years after production.
In good storing condition (no direct sunlight, not wet, cleaned) can be few years more.

Point is that "I drive more carefully" is more-or-less a myth. It doesn't help if it is snowing or water solidifies on the road.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wimQSTtCEEY&list=RDwimQSTtCEEY#t=43

This kind of thing is pretty funny :lol:
 
Yes, if you in Estonia use 2 sets of tires, changed every 6 months, you do not have to rotate your tires... Also, your tires will last TWICE as long.

In the US, I don't think we get as much regular snow as you folks in Estonia, and when we do, the streets are cleaned down to the black pavement. I think that is why we don't use winter tires as much, unless you are North, near Canada...
 
Eh, in theory you could be right. In practice I'm going to drive my Leaf like I stole it; rotate my own tires; fix whatever needs fixing; and won't bother with winter tires on this car. I drive with studs on my other rigs, and you know what? They slip on ice too.

The video doesn't prove your point. That was a Portland, OR ice storm. Not even winter tires, or tank treads would get you up that hill or around town. Winter tires don't have magical gripping powers on a sheet of ice covered in slushy snow.
 
0' F 3-4 inches of snow and the ecopias worked just fine on my leaf last winter. Zero issues zero complaints. Hardly ever had the traction control or abs kick in at all.

Its just not an issue where i live. Velocity is everything. Period. For the purpose of this discussion hills equal a velocity change a big one. I guess a more correct term is acceleration. When you take a bend in the road that is an acceleration. When you climb a hill that is an acceleration. Your speed might not change but you are accelerating. Slowing down changes the acceleration curve. Take the turn of hill slower. Now its possible to encounter a hill auch that any acceleration exceeds the capabilities of your car or tires even 2mph. Most of us simply do not live in such conditions.

If i lived in the poconos i would probably have snowtires and chains ready. I dont.

If i lived in some parts of oregon or washington or montana it would probably be different. Around here? Not so much.

The only reason i even have a set of snow tires for my minivan and geo tracker is that i scored them stupid cheap off craigslist. Never used them yet. Have not had a need.
 
Illusion that Ecopias work at 0F. Yes they work. You can drive. But what about most important factor - braking distance!
That is totally different. I would say more than 200% definitely.
So I can easily drive at 55mph in really bad weather and have braking distance that is only a little bit worse than
in summer. If I had summer tires I would have to drive at 30-40mph to be at least somewhat safe.

You guys don't use all-season tires? You use summer tires all year around?
 
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