tps said:
I noticed. Is there a prize?
:lol:
120-to-240 Adapter Kit (Rev 1)
- Thread starter garygid
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Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:
I noticed. Is there a prize?
:lol:
garygid
Well-known member
Yes, spec sheets help, but one really needs to obtain a small quantity of all the parts used, and then make sure it all works, fits, etc.
I was just going to connect just ONE 120v ground to the 240v ground, and not use the other 120v ground. Probably safer, right?
I was just going to connect just ONE 120v ground to the 240v ground, and not use the other 120v ground. Probably safer, right?
garygid said:
I'm not sure about this one.....would have to get input from an electrician. I personally wouldn't have thought it mattered, so long as stray voltage doesn't find it's way back to ground through you or your EVSE?
davewill
Well-known member
I would think that you wouldn't want to connect both...you might create a groundloop that would be susceptible to RF noise. However Phil's schematic seems to show it:mwalsh said:
Ingineer said:Here's a quick schematic of a basic safe unit: (Update: There is a more complex version with the audible indicator here.)
The area in the shaded box is optional if you'd like to hook up an LED. You can also use any pilot lamp rated for 240v operation.
...
tps
Well-known member
I have both 120V grounds connected to the 240V ground in the unit I built. If you only connect one of the 120V grounds, when someone plugs in the ungrounded plug first, that side of the 240V circuit will be applied to the EVSE without a ground. This is never a good practice. That's why the ground pins on power plugs are longer, they want the ground to connect first before the hot conductors are connected. IMHO both 120V grounds should be connected so that the EVSE gets a ground before getting a hot regardless of which 120V connector is plugged in first.garygid said:
Also, consider the case where the grounded plug gets inadvertantly disconnected (the main reason we go to the trouble to use relays in the first place). If the other plug's ground is not hooked up, you'll have a hot EVSE with no ground, definitely an undesirable situation.
garygid
Well-known member
I believe that Grounds should only be connected together at ONE point, the main service/braker panel.
If the chosen "one" ground is Open, you want the EVSE to detect it and NOT power the car.
If the chosen "one" ground is Open, you want the EVSE to detect it and NOT power the car.
tps
Well-known member
The equipment ground should not be connected with neutral past the main service panel. There is no limitation on bonding equipment grounds with other equipment grounds.garygid said:
Power should not be applied to devices, the EVSE included, without first providing an aquipment ground. This is an unsafe condition which is mechanically prevented by longer ground pins in the plugs, which make first and break last. Ground continuity monitoring is meant to be a backup system which detects failure of the primary system. The standards bodies felt that, since the car had a metalic outer casing, but was insulted from ground by its tires, that a ground monitoring system was required in case the primary system, the grounded connector with the extended ground pin, failed.
wwhitney
Well-known member
All equipment grounds should be connected together. The equipment grounding conductor system is not a tree, redundancy is good. In the walls, all grounds within a junction box are to be interconnected, even when from different circuits or voltage levels.garygid said:
Cheers, Wayne
garygid
Well-known member
Ok, Wayne, thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it.
I will connect both 120v-Input Grounds together, then connect that to the 240v-Output Ground.
One properly-sized male-female pair of crimp-lugs should still do the job, with the two 120v Grounds crimped into a female spade lug, and the one "output" Ground crimped into a mating (male) lug.
I will connect both 120v-Input Grounds together, then connect that to the 240v-Output Ground.
One properly-sized male-female pair of crimp-lugs should still do the job, with the two 120v Grounds crimped into a female spade lug, and the one "output" Ground crimped into a mating (male) lug.
pii100 said:
Did you have any problems getting the relays from Zoro? They didn't ship them with my other stuff and won't tell me (at least not by email) what the problem is. I may have to pick up the phone and call to find out what the problem is and if they're on back-order or cancelled. In the case of the latter, I want to know what they plan on doing with the rest of the money I pre-paid via PayPal.
Honestly, this company has been a bit of a PITA to deal with.
pii100
Well-known member
No problems at all, I placed two orders the same day and both shipped and arrived at the same time. I paid via Google checkout not that that makes any difference(I don't like PayPal). My guess would be we cleaned out their stock and they are back ordered.
pii100 said:
Got a response....back ordered to Aug 4th. Pooh, I wanted to finish up this weekend.
Still, the lack of safety hasn't stopped me from (carefully) trying my unit!
And I found 240v on the second try - one outlet downstairs and one outlet upstairs. Once I have the unit properly completed, I'll run around the house trying all the non-GFI outlets and see what's-what.BTW, has anyone with a R2 Ingineer 16A unit seen any problems with using it and the 120-240 on two 15A outlets?
pii100
Well-known member
I've been so busy with the SPX unit I just got I haven't tried tried to use the rev2 unit I got from Phil last week with my quick 240. Never thought they would arrive just 1 day apart. Tonight should be a good night to give it a go. I'm also toying with the idea someone mentioned of making the quick 240 work as an extension cord at 120v(probably use a second light to indicate this mode).
pii100
Well-known member
Just charged for one hour using one of Phil's rev 2 upgraded units and my quick 240 on two 15 amp circuits. I was unable to measure the current with my killawatt, it seems to measure current on the neutral line. I can verify that it will trip a 15a breaker if there is any other load on it.
pii100 said:
How do you like the SPX unit? I am in GA and because of site problems I cannot order my Leaf yet. I am thinking of ordering a SPX 240 40 or 50 amp charger instead of the one Nissan tries to push. What do you think of their unit? :?:
pii100 said:
But no other loads and it's OK?
BTW, a build note when using a Pass & Seymour L6-20R...they are actually 1-9/16" across. So if you drill a 1.5" inch hole, you're going to have to dress the hole a hair larger (I used my rotary tool fitted with a sanding drum). If you don't have access to a rotary tool, you should consider using a 1-5/8" hole saw or bring a sheet of sandpaper (and some patience) to bear.
pii100
Well-known member
With no other load it charged fine for one hour. I am exceedingly happy with the SPX unit. It's reasonably priced, rather compact, works at 120v and 240v, adjustable from 12a up to 32a charging, portable, has a bracket for wall mounting that it goes on and off of easily, lets me easily wire in whatever plug I want, and comes with a 16 or 25 foot cable. The only thing they could do to improve it in my option is to cut the cost in half or increase the max current to 80a to match the 2009 J1772 spec.
davewill
Well-known member
Well, increasing the current would require a much heavier J1772 cable and plug. That would make the unit even less portable than it is now.pii100 said:
Electric4Me
Well-known member
Do you have a link for this unit? I'm not sure what I've dug up online is correct...pii100 said:
davewill
Well-known member
Try here for pics and discussion: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1442&start=60Electric4Me said:
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