120-to-240 Adapter Kit (Rev 1)

[tbleakne]

I would always check the laundry room first.... especially if laundy is in the garage.
Very often the washer/dryer duplex is wired with split phase service and you will have 240 right there.

A reasonable suggestion, although I did check the laundry room. I am not positive, but I believe it had just one GFCI outlet. I thought it strange that the laundry room did not have a 240V outlet for a dryer, because my hosts told me this housing development had no natural gas service. Their dryer runs on propane.

 

[ebill3]

I rent. I thought I was doomed as the only readily available outlets for a semi-permanent installation were outside, the garage, and the kitchen - all GFCI protected.

I lucked out. Further investigation revealed that although the outlet in the garage ceiling for the garage door opener is on the same circuit breaker as the garage and outside outlets, it is not GFCI protected, and the garage ceiling light is on a different phase. A quick trip to Lowe's to get a lamp socket with a built in grounded outlet to replace the garage ceiling lamp socket, and I am in business. Two outlets a foot apart on different legs - the planets were aligned.

Bill

 

[davewill]

... A quick trip to Lowe's to get a lamp socket with a built in grounded outlet to replace the garage ceiling lamp socket, and I am in business. Two outlets a foot apart on different legs - the planets were aligned.

Does that mean you're going to have to leave the ceiling light ON in order to charge?

 

[ebill3]

... A quick trip to Lowe's to get a lamp socket with a built in grounded outlet to replace the garage ceiling lamp socket, and I am in business. Two outlets a foot apart on different legs - the planets were aligned.

Does that mean you're going to have to leave the ceiling light ON in order to charge?

Yes. But the new lamp socket has an on/off pull chain for the bulb, so some nylon line and a few screw in eyelets routes the pull chain end to where the normal wall switch is located.

Bill

 

[broncoa]

Pete D from Plymouth here. What is the reason for this adapter? can I charge a leaf with 240 volts from 2 -120volt plugs? I believe the 220 volt charger is built in the car. What do I need to put 220 volts to my leaf as I only have a 120 charger outside of buying a charger. :?:

 

[ebill3]

Well Pete, the actual battery charger is built into the LEAF, and it will accept 120 or 240 volts. The EVSE ( Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment) that came with your LEAF will only accept and provide 120 volts. It can be modified to accept and provide the charger with 240 volts.

Check out: evseupgrade.com

Bill

 

[garygid]

The LEAF's built-in charger accepts 110-120v and 208-240v AC input power. When using 240v AC, the LEAF's charger puts more current into the Battery Pack, thus charging it faster.

So, being able to provide 240v AC power to the car is not required, but often helpful.

 

[ScotMac]

1. How, exactly, do the relays provide added safety ? According to the schematic, each relay is energized if its corresponding 120V circuit is complete. Each relay, when energized, connects its half of the 240v circuit to the output. So each half of the 240v circuit is energized if and only if the corresponding 120V plug is live. How is that different from just wiring the hot (black) wire from each 120v line to the output?

Assume no relays.

If the EVSE is plugged into the L6-20R, and one 120 volt plug is unplugged by an unsuspecting person, there is a direct path for the other 120 volt hot through the EVSE to the now exposed 120 volt plug.

With the relay, when the 120 volt plug is unplugged, that circuit is broken.

Bill

This is true... BUT ONLY TRUE if the EVSE is plugged in. If not, the 120 don't connect to each other, and there is no safety issue. So, if you always plug in the 120's first AND THEN the EVSE (240), you will always be safe. However, YES, it is true that someone ELSE might not know the *procedure*.

 

[mwalsh]

This is true... BUT ONLY TRUE if the EVSE is plugged in. If not, the 120 don't connect to each other, and there is no safety issue. So, if you always plug in the 120's first AND THEN the EVSE (240), you will always be safe. However, YES, it is true that someone ELSE might not know the *procedure*.

Your biggest fear without the relays is someone coming and unplugging one of the 120v feeds at the remote end, completely unaware of what is going on otherwise and electrocuting themselves. Not a risk I'd be willing to take in the circumstances I'd be expecting to use such a setup (charging at a friends house or other public location).

 

[ebill3]

However, YES, it is true that someone ELSE might not know the *procedure*.

Yep, and therein lies the rub. DO NOT OMIT THE RELAYS - they are cheap enough. You can add caution labels, death head symbols, whatever, but why take the chance?

 

[TOPleaf]

Do I understand correctly that nobody offers a 120 to 240 adapter for sale?

 

[EVDRIVER]

Do I understand correctly that nobody offers a 120 to 240 adapter for sale?

http://www.quick220.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Google is your friend.

 

[TOPleaf]

Thanks for that quick response!

 

[Ingineer]

Be sure to get the A220-20L model with the L6-20 outlet so it's rated properly and you don't need another adapter.

-Phil

 

[kayakplayer]

I know that it has been weeks, but I'm wondering if anyone has built the deluxe version using a solderable perf board in the Carlon 4"x4"x2" box? I like the small size of the box to carry along in the trunk but am afraid that the components will be crowded and the heat may build up. If I use a 15-30 receptacle in the box along with the components listed, do I need to go bigger to make everything fit?

 

[ebill3]

I know that it has been weeks, but I'm wondering if anyone has built the deluxe version using a solderable perf board in the Carlon 4"x4"x2" box? I like the small size of the box to carry along in the trunk but am afraid that the components will be crowded and the heat may build up. If I use a 15-30 receptacle in the box along with the components listed, do I need to go bigger to make everything fit?

Mine use a 4 x 4 x 2.5 box and include the two relays and indicator light. Gets barely warm. I use the L6-20 socket. If your use is for EV charging, the 15-30 seems unnecessary as EVSEs that I'm aware of do not need neutral, and 30 Amp is overkill.

Also, I don't see the need for perf board - point to point using spade terminals at the relays works well.

 

[Ingineer]

Unfortunately you cannot use a Quick-220 on our new 2013 upgraded LEAF units at full power, as these require a 30 amp circuit. You can however dial the amperage down to a level that your circuit can handle. (Check with a qualified electrician if unsure)

You would likely require an additional adapter as well.

Note that you should always carefully check the condition of any outlets used with the Quick-220 or similar. Once charging, monitor the temperature of all connections.

-Phil

 

[kayakplayer]

Thanks to both of you for the quick responses. I am glad that I posted my question.

Based upon your responses, my understanding is that on a pair of 15Amp circuits, the EVSE may be able to draw up to 15Amps at 240Volts, only 1 Amp under the typical operation of my 2013 upgraded EVSE (thanks Phil, it is working great!). The issue must be that by placing a 15-30R into the unit, it gives the impression that all of the components in the box and power circuit are rated for 30Amps. Is that correct? So somebody in the future might try to run a welder off of the unit by plugging into two 120Volt circuits. You want the L6-20R so the impression is that it can handle up to 20Amps at 240Volts should I find a pair of 20Amp 120Volt receptacles that work together.

I'll skip using the 15-30 receptacle, and buy the cable clamp instead.

 

[TonyWilliams]

I had no idea that the Quick220 was patented!!!

http://www.google.com/patents/US5977658.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

For applications filed on or after June 8, 1995, utility and plant patents are granted for a term which begins with the date of the grant and usually ends 20 years from the date you first applied for the patent subject to the payment of appropriate maintenance fees. Design patents last 14 years from the date you are granted the patent. Note: Patents in force on June 8 and patents issued thereafter on applications filed prior to June 8, 1995 automatically have a term that is the greater of the twenty year term discussed above or seventeen years from the patent grant.

Patent Title: Voltage doubling alternating current power supply
Patent Number: 5977658 Filing Date: Sep 04, 1998
Application Number: 1485776 Issue Date: Nov 02, 1999

 

[Ingineer]

I know for sure there's prior art, because I built one well before that patent was filed!

Not that I care, I definitely don't want to sell those!

-Phil